Cleaning and Caring for Solid Hardwood FurnitureWhat's the best way to care for wood furniture? Ask a few different people, and you'll probably get a few different answers. But the experts agree on a few wood-care basics. Your mother was right: DUST FREQUENTLY. DO NOT USE A FEATHER DUSTER because it will simply move dust around, flinging it into the air. Feather dusters can't be washed, and a quill could scratch the wood surface if a feather breaks off. Dust is abrasive so infrequent or improper dusting can create a worn, dull surface over the years. Dust can accumulate in carvings, cracks and grooves and make wood look dark and unattractive. This dusty buildup eventually becomes hard to remove. BE VERY CAREFUL USING WATER to
clean wood. Wood should never get wet or soaked.
Water can cause swelling, warping or staining when
it penetrates a finish. Use coasters, pads, cloths
or runners to protect against spills and water
rings. How to DustYou think you know how to dust? Here are some detailed tips from the experts. Use a clean, washable cloth made of soft, lint-free cotton. The best choices include an old T- shirt, diaper, cheesecloth, dish towel, piece of flannel, or chamois. The cloth should have no snaps, buttons, zippers or thick seams that could scratch furniture surfaces. Do not use a cloth that has hanging threads or unraveling edges. These could catch on wood slivers, molding, knobs or other loose pieces. Dry Dusting Versus Damp DustingMany experts believe that dusting with a dry cloth is abrasive and will ultimately dull the finish. A dry cloth will not really remove dust, they say. These experts typically recommend sprinkling a few drops of water onto the dusting cloth. The trick is to moisten the cloth just enough to make dust adhere to it. The cloth should not be so damp that it wets the wood. If you can see any trace of water on the wood after you wipe, your cloth is too damp. Some conservators recommend using distilled water for heirlooms or antiques. You might want to use a spray-on
dusting aid or polish. If so, consider whether you
want to apply silicone oil to your finishes. This
type of oil is used in most commercial furniture
sprays and polishes. To find out if your product
contains silicone oil, consult the label or call the
manufacturer. Follow the GrainWipe off dust using gentle, oval motions along the grain of the wood. Turn or fold the cloth as soon as dirt is visible on any section. Keep a pile of clean cloths handy so you don't move dust and dirt from one spot to another. Lift, don't slide, lamps and objects to dust under and around them. Avoid soiling adjoining upholstery. Launder soiled dusting cloths immediately. Carefully Choose Wood Care ProductsIt's no wonder there's a lot of confusion about what wood-care products to use. Store shelves are stacked with countless brands of wax, polish, spray and oil. Unless your furniture is sold as unfinished, or the finish has deteriorated, when you clean your furniture you're actually cleaning the finish, not the wood. Proper care can prolong the life of a finish, making the surface of furniture slippery so that objects slide along it without scratching. For new furniture, read manufacturers' tags and literature. Consider consulting a conservator for tips on caring for especially valuable antiques and heirlooms. One common myth is that wood furniture is "alive." It does not "breathe," so don't worry about clogging up pores with wax. It does not need to be "nourished" or "fed'' with oily polishes. Changes in humidity, not a lack of oil, cause wood to crack. PASTE WAX has been used for centuries as a finishing material and a furniture care product. If used properly, paste wax will provide a thick, hard, lasting finish. Liquid wax is similar, but typically provides a thinner coating. Waxes dry hard so they do not smear and attract dust and dirt. Paste wax typically lasts six months to a couple years, depending on how much the furniture is used and how many coats are applied. Paste wax will help delay the formation of water rings, giving you a little extra time to wipe up the moisture. Some people, especially antique lovers, prefer the soft sheen provided by waxes. Wax will not interfere with future refinishing. Make sure you buy a wax designed
especially for wood furniture. Waxes for cars, shoes
or other finishes might harm furniture. CLEAN BRASS HARDWARE with caution.
If the brass hardware on your furniture has a
protective lacquer coating, it probably will not
tarnish and will only need to be dusted. If the
brass is tarnishing and you want to polish it,
either remove the brass or slide a piece of mylar
plastic behind the hardware so that the brass
cleaner does not touch the finish. Watch the HumidityWood is very sensitive to changes in relative humidity. As the weather changes, so does the relative humidity in your home and in the moisture content of the wood in your furniture. This means that furniture is constantly expanding and contracting. Wood does best in moderate conditions of around 70 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit and a relative humidity of about 50 percent to 55 percent. That means using a humidifier in winter and an air conditioner in summer. Furniture ages more quickly if stored in a basement, attic, garage or warehouse. Excess heat and dryness can cause wood to split and crack. Place furniture away from all heat sources, if possible. If you must put furniture near an air duct, use a shield or guard plate to direct heat away. Frequent and sudden changes in
relative humidity are especially bad. Wood is most
likely to crack when the climate in a home suddenly
changes from hot and humid to cool and dry. Avoid
placing furniture in front of radiators, heat runs
or fireplaces. Store table leaves as close as
possible to the table so they adjust to the same
humidity conditions.
Avoid Direct SunlightThe ultraviolet rays of the sun
will damage a finish and bleach the wood underneath.
Prolonged exposure to sunlight can cause the finish
to crack, sometimes in a pattern resembling the skin
of an alligator. Tablecloths and doilies slow down
the process, but they don't stop it. Try to keep
furniture out of direct sunlight. When that's not
possible, reduce the amount of light streaming on
any piece of furniture. Consider planting shrubs in
front of windows to block direct sunlight. Use
window shades, drapes or blinds to block light
during the time of day the furniture is exposed.
Consider using UV screening films or tinting windows
and skylights. Avoid Chemical ExposureKeep solvents such as nail polish
remover, alcohol and paint thinner away from wood
furniture because they can harm the finish. Alcohol
is contained in colognes, perfumes and medications
as well as in wine, beer and liquor. Fingerprints,
perspiration and body oils can harm a finish over
time, especially on chairs. Plants and flower nectar
that touch the finish can also cause permanent
stains. Keep Plastic Off WoodDo not leave plastic objects lying on wood surfaces. Color from plastic tablecloths, appliance covers, wrappers, place mats and toys can leach into wood over time. Plastic can also stick to a finish, damaging it when it is pulled up. Guard Against ScratchesLift, don't slide, objects on wood. Place objects on trivets, tablecloths, doilies or others covers to protect the finish. Use felt bottoms on lamps and other decorative objects. Avoid brightly colored felt because its color could leach into the wood. Some experts say brown is the best color choice. Carefully Move FurnitureLift heavy furniture with the help
of at least two people. Sliding pieces could hurt
the wood floor and damage furniture legs by applying
too much sideways pressure. If a drawer has two
handles, use both to open it. Don't stuff drawers
with too many items. |
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